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When curating a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee renowned high-end establishments. But, situated prominently among these culinary titans is a modest salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has left the proprietors totally astonished.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small restaurant securing such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its former charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.